8foot walls look like ....8foot walls

All i can concentrate on is waves. I sit in class knowing i should be listening(i sure as hell don't though!) and stare at the wall, imagining that it is a wave and i am riding along it as fast as i can before it closes down. the last two weekends i have gone up surfing and camping and surfed friday and saturday. i can think of nothing else. on the bus i look out the window of the double deckers and imagine i am about to drop down into a wave and fly along the wall it creates as it hits the beach.
I have gotten to a point now in my surfing that i can really fly along the waves. it is so smooth and fast. one or two pumps and i am screaming along just infront of the peeling lip of the wave narrowly avoiding a brutal pummeling by the thundering explosions of whitewater crashing down at my heals. One slip or hesitation and it is upon me, thrashing and tumbling me into the rocks at the shore, holding me down and trapping me amoungst the kelp.
This limbo between disaster and divinity keeps the adreniline rushing so hard that all you hear is your heart pumping in your ears, as you loose yourself in the moment and let your subconcious react at speeds your waking thoughts never could.
Sitting in the water with no one around for as far as you see. Out in the kelp a heron takes off as a bull sealion surfaces and asserts its dominance with a cacophony of barks, breaking the silence.

FUCKFUCKFUCKFUCKFUCKFCUKFUCKFFFFKK!!!!!!!!
i am addicted like a whore to crack.